Lynda's Taiwan-logue

< Visited in Jul 2019 >

Originally a plan to check out Taichung Fifth Market 台中第五市场 and Painted Animation Lane 动漫彩绘巷 for their proximity to each other, Taichung Literature Park 台中文学公园 was a by-the-way as I walked past this interesting cluster even before reaching the market. (The merit of exploring cities on foot...) 

▼ A map overview indicating the 3 locations. Though good food at traditional markets often extends to the areas in and around them, in this case Lequn Street 乐群街. If you have sufficient time, these 3 places can be planned on the same day. 

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Taichung Literature Park 台中文学公园 (/Taichung Literature Museum 台中文学馆) was a cluster of police quarters built in 1932. Declared a historical site by the city government in 2009, the premises were re-purposed, with the park around the cluster opened first in 2015, and subsequently the museum in 2016. The latter consists of 6 buildings, housing exhibitions, workshops, children's literature and recreation and F&B. Check out their official website for guided tour and exhibition schedules.  

< Visited in Jul 2019 >

Taichung Third Market 台中第三市场 was one of the marketplaces in my Jul 2019 itinerary, made all the more enticing as it was a mere 15-minute walk from my accommodation Petrichor Hotel 朗舍行馆 (though I usually cater more time for getting distracted enroute). Cultural Heritage Park 文化创意产业园区, on the other hand, was an inclusion by chance passing by it at the end of my marketplace stroll - though highly recommended if you have time for both. 

Related read:
[Taichung 台中 ⌂ Stay宿] Petrichor Hotel 朗舍行馆 ✭PLUS✭ Hong Rui Zhen Sandwich 洪瑞珍正宗招牌三明治 // Dong Dong Taro Ball 东东芋圆
[Taichung 台中] Taichung Second Market ♦ 台中第二市场

< Visited in Jul 2019 >

Traditional markets are a disappearing act in modern cities. Many get an overhaul and lose their original charm, becoming nothing more than homogenous, functional places. On this note, Taiwan makes an effort to inject creativity and character into some of their modern markets - making tradition accessible and attractive to the younger generation. I love visiting marketplaces on my travels, especially traditional ones which are almost non-existent where I come from; and find revamped ones in Taiwan quite an attraction on their own. Both types are worth exploring, for the local cuisine, infectious peak hour energy and modest neighbourhood charm.   

Taichung Second Market 台中第二市场 was opened way back in 1917, and regarded as a upscale market for the Japanese. Came across two interesting YouTube videos sharing insights on the century-old Taichung landmark, which you can find online:
❐ 市场寻百味: 台中第二市场额 Century-old market in Taichung, Taiwan
❐ 我在市场待了一天: Ep6 台中第二市场

< Visited in Jul 2019 >

In many progressively urbanized countries, forests, green spaces and nature have made way for concrete dwellings, which takes priority in land scarce and increasingly populated places. Those that pay attention to (restoring some) greenery, make an effort to include pockets of nature (albeit man-made) or cater for neighbourhood parks in urban planning. I feel blessed that Taiwan maintains a good mix of city-scape and breathtaking nature - allowing me varied travel experiences - and feel aghast when seeing reports of people (both locals and tourists) misbehaving at attractions. 

Taiwan does a great job providing public spaces, such as parks. And it is not incidental, considering how much effort must have been put in, for so many of them to withstand the test of time. Taichung Park 台中公园 is one example, being the oldest park in the city, completed way back in 1903.          

Spanning more than 10 hectares (almost 19 football fields!), part of the original park was built on a private garden donated by Wufeng's Lin Clan (雾峰林家), and extended to include the city's north gate (台中省城之北门楼) and a fortress hill (东大墩孤丘). Post-WWII, the park underwent some renaming and by then, encompassed its iconic lake and pavilion (now a city monument). Through its early days, the large park even housed a Japanese shrine and a mini zoo, though what are left now are some memorial structures.     

Related read:

< Visited in Jul 2019 >

The Taiwan High Speed Rail (HSR 高铁) came into service in January 2007, and provided a fast and comfortable alternative to the older Taiwan Railway Administration (TRA 台铁) system for inter-city travel. If there is any downside to HSR, it is that it only covers the "left side" of Taiwan, versus TRA's much more extensive and intricate railway lines through the whole of Taiwan. If you ask me, both are equally functional for me, although I have another favoured mode of public transport - bus/coach (公车/客运).

It was via an inter-city long-distance bus from Taoyuan International Airport, that got me to Taichung for this trip. As a result of my travel research, I realised how vibrant and convenient the Taichung (TRA) station 台中火车站 zone is. 

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***Long post ahead

< Stayed in Jul 2019 >

Launched in May 2018, Petrichor Hotel 朗舍行馆 derived its name from 'the pleasant smell produced after rainfall on dry ground'. Sandwiched along a quiet stretch of low-rise shops and offices, it is a convenient 5-minutes ride or 15-minutes stroll from the bustling Taichung Railway Station zone (passing Miyahara 宫原眼科 in the middle). From the handful of room types suitable for solo travellers, couples and families, I decided to experience two of them over my six-night stay.  

The street vibes and exterior, by day and night... 

⇩ A hard-to-miss earth-toned duplex frontage, and a highly-photographed moon feature lamp.

⇩ A tall heavy main door into the hotel lobby. Even if you have luggage in tow, the hotel staff are usually quick on their feet to help. 

< Visited from 2017 - 2019 > 

Eslite 诚品 bookstore is unlikely an unfamiliar name to Taiwan visitors, though more accurately, the brand has evolved into a cultural, lifestyle and retail icon, with malls operating as Eslite Spectrum 诚品生活. Place one of my favourite Taiwanese icons at one of my favourite cultural parks - and Eslite Spectrum Songyan Store 诚品生活松烟店 does not disappoint as a must-go destination. 

Related read:
[Taipei 台北] Songshan Cultural & Creative Park ♦ 松山文创园区

< Visited from 2017 - 2019 >

Songshan Cultural & Creative Park 松山文创园区, or Songyan 松烟 in short, is one of my favourite haunts in Taipei. In case you are wondering why it's called Songyan 松烟, the premises were originally a Japanese tobacco factory - named Songshan Tobacco Plant 松山烟草工厂 - in the 1930s. The city government converted the space into a cultural and retail zone in early 2000s, marrying modern use with the historic site, old structures and architecture. Excellent for a few leisurely hours, I can hardly get tired of this place which keeps my wen qing 文青 soul meaningfully engaged.

< Stayed in Jul 2019 & Nov 2018 >

In my other blog on iTaipei Service Apartment 京站酒店式公寓, I shared the pros of staying at this location. This post shares another service apartment in the same building - Taipei Beautiful Apartment 京站美丽住宿. I had come across this option when iTaipei was fully booked on my desired dates, and was glad I did - I could enjoy the same good location, in addition to another variety of rooms. Taipei Beautiful Apartment 京站美丽住宿's room rates may be lower, depending on travel season, so no harm making a comparison. 

After my reservation on Booking.com, the host emailed me to arrange a deposit (there is a slight discount if you book directly with the operator; but the deposit still applies) and provided contact details (Whatsapp/Line). Unlike iTaipei Service Apartment 京站酒店式公寓, there is no check-in/out reception, but it didn't cause any inconvenience. Days before the trip, I confirmed my meeting venue and timing - you can request to meet the host as early as 11am, though official check-in time is 3pm, so meeting any earlier is for luggage deposit. (If you are lucky, you could have a properly cleaned room slightly earlier.)   

⇩ The meeting point is outside Starbucks at QSquare 京站 on ground floor, just a few steps away from Taipei Bus Terminal 台北转运站. I had sent a photo of my luggage to the host as requested, as well as habitually informing when I departed Taoyuan Airport for Taipei Main Station. The host was punctual and had no difficulty identifying me in the crowd. 

Access

< Visited in Jul 2019 >

If you have had enough of Taichung sights such as Rainbow Village, Miyahara and Fengjia Night Market, and are looking for more to do, venturing out of the city proper is an alternative. Qingshui 清水 district was one of my two day trips in July - the other being Wufeng 雾峰. 

Qingshui 清水 in western Taichung and approximately 35km from the city central, got its name during Japanese rule. If the Lin clan is synonymous with Wufeng (雾峰林家), Qingshui's most famous personality must be the legendary Liao Tianding 廖添丁 - Taiwan's Robin Hood during oppressive Japanese rule.       

Date of travel: Sat, 6 Jul 2019
*The unpredictable weather was not kind to me that day, starting to pour mere minutes before arriving at my destination, and persisting through a good 60% of my itinerary. While my stroll could have been a lot more comfortable and productive had I been blessed with the same fine weather I had at Wufeng, I managed to accomplish what I had set out to.  

< Visited in Jul 2019 >

Taiwan has a comprehensive programme to preserve and revamp old military villages (眷村) into heritage zones - as opposed to eradicating all of these abandoned communities - inviting local artists, workshops, non-profit organizations and even brands to move in and utilize the space. Qingshui Art Village 清水眷村文化园区 is one of these country-wide projects, among the many such as Guangfu Village 光復新村 in Taichung Wufeng, and Military Families Community Park 四四南村 in Taipei. Built in 1949 to house airforce personnel and named Xinyi New Village 信義新村, the area was officially marked a heritage zone in 2012.

I had made my way here as part of a Qingshui day trip - check out my full post here:Check out my entire Qingshui Day Trip here:
[Taichung 台中] ☼ Qingshui Day Trip 清水一日游 ☼

< Visited in Jul 2019 >

In 1935, the Japanese-run, then-named Qingshui First Public School 清水第一公学校 moved to its current relocation (circled below). To create staff accommodation, a cluster of dormitories was constructed at 1 side of the school, styled in a fusion of Japanese-western architecture (和洋折衷式建筑). The Qingshui Elementary School Dormitory Cluster 清水公学校日式宿舍群 (boxed below) we get to admire now, is one of the remaining buildings of this style in Taiwan.

Opened to the public after school hours on weekdays, and on weekends, there are several "mini museums" housed within the beautiful Japanese buildings - some of which were closed (or unoccupied) when I visited. 

The buildings have been refurbished and are air-conditioned, thus the closed doors which should be handled with care. Visitors are also required to remove footwear before treading on the wooden and tatami floors indoors. (Thus, my delayed visit that rainy day, to allow my wet socks to dry, over cake and coffee at Yorimichi Patisserie 顺道菓子店 a short walk down the same street.) 

If you are an avid fan of old architecture, chinese history and cultural museums like me, you will appreciate the effort put into setting up such public exhibitions to remember the past. By no means haphazardly done despite being free, I am often floored by the ambience and attention accorded to artefacts and curation. My blog will not detail the content, as I am sure you will prefer to appreciate it yourself when you visit.