< Visited in Mar 2019 >
Just like how I uncover other new gems for my Taiwan travels, Leputing 乐埔町 started popping up on local blogs when I searched for culinary experiences. Feeding my keen interest in old architecture (particularly Japanese-style or historically rich buildings) converted to modern use, and piqueing my interest with great storytelling (Taiwanese leave me in awe with their marketing) and creating new narratives for history, Leputing looked promising. Two other establishments of the same nature in Taipei worth mentioning are Geo76 (Qingtian 76 青田76) - located not too far from Leputing's hood - and Marshal Zen Garden 少帅禅园 in Beitou.
Sitting quietly at a cross junction, it's hard to miss this Japanese-style building even when it's comparatively shorter than its neighbours and half concealed by a dark fence. In collaboration with the Taipei City government, the contracted management team meticulously restored the property, historically used as a dormitory for officials. (Read about the 1.5-year long restoration here.)
Finally opening its doors to diners in 2015, Leputing takes pride in French and Japanese fusion culinary, presenting premium local and overseas ingredients.
Arriving a tad early for our 11.30am lunch reservation (and after a Taiwanese rice ball takeout nearby, which I'll mention at the end of this blog), the gates remained closed till 11.30am. No hope of getting in earlier to explore and take photos, just in case you thought what I did. (Also, there is almost no shelter from the elements nearby.)
Finally admitting patrons and hungry tummies at 11.30am...
A greeter welcomes guests at the restaurant entrance.
TLC for the wooden floors of the lovely building - a thoughtful gesture for customers who wish to clean their soles before entering the restaurant.
There are pockets of retail and exhibits, worth taking a look before or after your meal.
There are three main dining areas in the restaurant, including a private room near the entrance.
We were led inwards through a Japanese-style corridor looking out to a zen garden, where the other two dining areas were.
A binded book on each table narrates the building restoration and shares more about the carefully selected and locally sourced ingredients.
Lunch is a 6-course set (with 3 mains to choose from) + choice of tea. The menu changes seasonally, and the server will recommend daily mains that are not on the menu - there was an additional roasted pigeon main that day.
<1> A delightfully refreshing and aesthetically pleasing salad with shrimp, pickled radish & cucumber
<2> From right to left - Tender smoked fish with soy bean crumbs, smooth tofu & lily bulb mousse (wow!)
<3> Chicken soup with charcoal grilled foie gras (hidden underneath) & mushroom - brought to the table without the broth, for the server to pour soup from a beautiful Japanese soup kettle
<4> While I had decided on fish before arriving at the restaurant, I had a change of heart after being told that the beef is graded Taiwanese beef (and 温体牛), with celery root gravy (芹菜根泥), charcoal grilled slowly to retain the flavour and with no hint of rawness. I am not a huge fan of beef, limiting my consumption to only if the dish is a local speciality (e.g Kobe beef in Japan or beef pho in Vietnam). For a country that relies primarily on imports for beef, locally bred options are by comparison less common. Taiwan's 温体牛 is touted for their freshness, delivered within hours of slaughtering, not frozen and thawed.
<5> Taitung's famous and award-winning Chihshang rice 池上冠军米 steamed with chicken oil and served in an earthen pot
(Portion here served three. A solo lady at another table was spotted with the same pot, and the server was overheard asking her if she would like to takeaway what she couldn't finish.)
<6> Dessert (and my choice of Burdock 牛蒡 tea) wrapped up the lovely lunch.
Left - sea salt caramel ice-cream with brown sugar cookie & apple sauce
Right - matcha petite four
The overall experience was wonderful, finding myself anticipating each dish and the server's accompanying narrative. The ingredients were indeed fresh, allowing each dish to be flavourfully prepared and leaving an impression on the tastebud. Leputing seemed very popular with Hongkong guests - we had a number of them in our seating. I am definitely putting this on my revisit list, great for small groups of friends, with elders or for special occasions. (NOTE: the restaurant does not admit children below the age of 5.)
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On the side...
What has become tradition on my Taiwan travels is to depart the country with local breakfast. (The cute triangular rice balls from convenience stores and any bread with mentaiko from bakeries work too.) I found a local rice ball stall through online blogs, located diagonally opposite Leputing (how convenient!). Noting its closing hour at 11.30am (though always expect popular breakfast stalls to sell out way before published hours), I made my way there earlier prior to lunch, for my takeaway. Glad I did, because shortly after joining the queue, the stall owners had to turn away disappointed customers. (I didn't dare to look back at the customers who arrived too late.)
刘妈妈饭团, loosely translated as Mommy Liu's Rice Ball.
Joining the blessed queue, it's good practice to decide on your orders while waiting (so as not to hold up others from their desired breakfast). The (rather extensive) menu is only in Chinese. Later, while waiting at Leputing across the road, it was observed that customers continued to pop by even as the owners were packing up. Looks like the local blogs gave a good recommendation!
My order of 7 huge & heavy rice balls (and the reason why I didn't dare to look back at the customers behind me) and showing two dissected for visual effect...
Mommy Liu's definitely generous with her ingredients, with rice balls bigger and heavier than most I have eaten - just one makes a filling meal. The menu boasts a great variety, though it's really different fillings on top of the essentials (dough fritter, meat floss, pickled radish). There is also a choice of white or purple rice - or a mix - at no additional charge.
Do check out this stall if you are a fan of Taiwanese breakfast and rice balls like me.
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Leputing | 乐埔町
Address --- No. 67, Section 2, Hangzhou South Road, Daan District 大安区杭州南路二段67号
Nearest MRT Station --- Guting 古亭 (G09 / green line) (O05 / orange line), exit 6 & walk about 10mins
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刘妈妈饭团
(loosely translated as "Mommy Liu's Rice Ball")
Address --- No. 88, Section 2, Hangzhou South Road 杭州南路二段88号
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