Lynda's Taiwan-logue

< Visited in Nov 2018 | Oct 2017 | Sep 2015 >

My first visit to the originally-named Shann Garden 禅园 was eons ago, where my friends and I sipped tea watching the lovely sunset, followed by buffet dinner at their separate restaurant. I even recall a (poor) monkey tied to a tree in the backyard, that quite entertained my friends and I (those young and ignorant days!).

After so many years and now with a different appreciation of Taiwan, what remains is my immense interest in historical places put to new use. Revisiting this gem at Beitou, it has since been renamed Marshal Zen Garden 少帅禅园 (台北北投张学良幽禁旧居).

Adapted from online information:
Built in the Japanese-colonized period of 1920s, the then-named Xin Gao Guest House (新高旅社) was known for its hot spring and once used as an entertainment club for the Japanese Kamikaze pilots during the end of World War II. Following the Xi An Incident (西安事变) in the 1930s - in which Zhang Xue Liang 张学良 instigated Chiang Kai Shek 蒋介石's detention, in a bid to force him into Kuomintang's truce with the Chinese Communist Party, to fight against Japanese presence in Manchuria - Zhang was placed under house arrest by the subsequently-released Chiang. Zhang's life of confinement thereafter, accompanied by his partner Ms Zhao Yi Di 趙一荻 ( 趙四小姐) - their union another colourful chapter on its own - continued in Taiwan when Chiang led the KMT troops out of China. This Beitou location was one of their residences, until Zhang and partner Ms Zhao Di immigrated to Hawaii in the 1990s, where he passed away at 100 years old. 

This video on Youtube gives good insights on the attraction. #台灣1001個故事

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The teahouse of my yesteryears - Little Six Tea House 小六茶铺 - is still present, named after one of the Marshal's childhood nicknames affectionately bestowed by his father (famous warlord-general Zhang Zuo Lin 张作霖). The cosy teahouse with a view makes a good spot for tea appreciation (though the beverage menu is quite extensive) and refreshments. I should probably make time for afternoon tea here sometime. 

The buffet restaurant has long been converted into a healthy cuisine diner - Han Qing Mei Zhuan 汉卿美馔 - which has been winning culinary awards for their beautifully and thoughtfully crafted tasty dishes, inspired by Marshal Zhang and his partner Ms Zhao.

Definitely worth a trip up here for the cuisine, visitors can also check out a small exhibition area detailing the colourful history of the premises, and enjoy the outdoor foot soak or indoor private hot spring at Double Happiness Hot Spring House 双喜汤屋 - named after another of the Marshal's childhood nicknames.  
 

The nearest MRT stations are Beitou 北投 (R22) and Xinbeitou 新北投 (R22a) on the red line - respectively a 10-minute and 5-minute cab ride to Marshal Zen Garden 少帅禅园. If you are considering a walk from Xinbeitou MRT station, be warned that it is a winding uphill journey that could take at least 30 minutes. I had walked (back) to the MRT station after one dinner, and it wasn't much easier despite being downhill. My suggestion is at least not to try the ascent on an empty stomach, though the descent could be pretty relaxing if you have the time : ) 
Note: if walking at night, do note that the pathway may not be entirely lit and it is rather quiet walking past private residential estates and exclusive spa resorts.

Alternatively, patrons of the hot spring house and restaurant can book a free shuttle from either MRT station when making a reservation, subject to seat availability and schedule (every half hourly). For the ride back to either MRT station, let the greeter or restaurant reception know, upon arriving at Marshal Zen Garden 少帅禅园. I made use of this free service in Oct 2017 and Nov 2018, reservation made via FB private messaging, though noting there is also an online reservation feature on their official website. 

▼ Lovely trees outside Beitou MRT station, while waiting for my ride ~ 

Upon alighting at the main entrance, a concierge greets visitors and enquires about purpose of visit (hot spring and/or dining) and prior reservation. It is advisable to make one as their culinary awards in recent years have made them rather popular. Remember to ask about a return ride to the MRT station, if you need one. 

▼ Another thing to consider if you have kids and elderly in tow - steep steps which you have to overcome to access the premises. This is the only way in and out.

▼ Breathtaking view of the cityscape (more to come!)

▼ More steps elsewhere in the premises, to get to Little Six Tea House 小六茶铺, the restaurant and hot spring area.

▼ Little Six Tea House 小六茶铺 - which I hope to cover in a next visit.

▼ A small exhibition area narrates the history of Marshal Zhang Xue Liang, and his being placed under "house arrest" here by Chiang Kai Shek, though it appeared that he had a certain degree of freedom. Chiang Ching Kuo 蒋经国, son of the senior Chiang and later President of Taiwan, is photographed with Marshal Zhang below.

▼ Round a corner from the exhibition area is the restaurant, to be covered in detail  later.

The hot spring area within Marshal Zen Garden 少帅禅园 comprises of 1) an outdoor foot soak area, at a fee of NT$200 OR complimentary for diners (the entrance greeter will guide you to your free coupon); and 2) private hot spring rooms, at a fee of NT$1200 or NT$1500 for 1 hour. 

▼ Present your coupon to the service personnel and you will be given a small towel. You can leave your shoes at the rack here, to wash your feet before enjoying the soak (basic ettiquette when using public pools). Remember to load on your anti-mozzie spray! 

▼ The private hot spring rooms are located nearby, looking rather exclusive, away from public eye.

▼ Approach the same service counter if you have a reservation to use the private rooms. Beyond this point is off-limits.

▼ Experienced the private hot spring room in my Oct 2017 solo trip. As I was dining in later, the 60-minute hot spring bath came at a 10% discount = NT$1080 (U.P. NT$1200). There is a slightly bigger room at NT$1500.

▼ Takes a while for the tub to fill (and it's my personal preference to fill the tub myself, so I know it's a new supply of water!). Remember to always do this first, before your pre-soak shower. 

▼ There are 2 tubs in the room. You can either use the smaller one for children in tow OR like what I did, fill it with cold spring water to alternate between 15-20 minutes hot and cold spring baths.

Back to the restaurant area adjacent to Double Happiness Hot Spring House 双喜汤屋, there are scheduled seatings for lunch and dinner. The restaurant remains closed during prep time, so there is no early admission - something to take note of if you are here for dinner during the colder months, as you may not be able to find much shelter from the chill outdoors. Each dining experience takes about 1.5 hours comfortably, through 9 courses and a free flow of tea. If you are here for the hot spring too, the service personnel will be happy to suggest the best timing for you to enjoy both activities.  

▼ Washroom through the other restaurant entrance, which should be the main entrance as the reception is on this side. Didn't get a chance to photograph the washroom interior, but it's pretty!

▼ There are four set menus to choose from, including a vegetarian option which after three visits, is the only one I have yet to experience. 
 

░ Dinner for two in Sep 2015 ░
Young Marshal Set 少帅私房套餐
NT$1500 + 10% tax at time of consumption
(*pls refer to website for current price)

▼ A refillable pot of tea sits on every table.

▼ Appetiser, before the actual nine-course meal (and excluding a rose vinegar drink)

▼ The menu changes seasonally, promising surprise and variety, great for revisiting at different times of the year. A little booklet (for the keeps) describes each dish. If you are concerned about the quaint portions (which I was, initially), I actually felt adequately fed at the end of the meal.

▼ A different type of tea is served after dinner, encouraging patrons to enjoy slowly and not be in a hurry to leave. I had a tummy full of tea from this dinner.

░ Lunch for one in Oct 2017 ░
Elite General Course 大帅府传套餐
NT$2500 + 10% tax at time of consumption
(*pls refer to website for current price)

▼ Appetizer

▼ 长寿双宝 - abalone & (to eat first) soy tofu 

▼ 霸王豪晏虾 - a very flavourful lobster, enhanced by the cheesy pineapple gravy

▼ 大帅竹午鱼 - finely fried fish with Hoisin sauce and mashed potato

▼ 汉卿赵四玫瑰醋饮 - rose vinegar to cleanse the palate

▼ 大帅府传燉虎掌 - while the name literally translates to 'tiger palm', this dish is actually pork knuckle joint 

▼ 伙房养生饭 - a small but definitely filling portion of rice

▼ 汉卿佛跳牆 - probably my first time having 'Buddha Jumps Over The Wall'

▼ 赵四独门蔬食 - seasonal greens

▼ 大帅府传甜品 (黑糖石冻配桑葚) & 宝岛四季鲜果 - refreshing brown sugar jelly with mulberry & honeydew

░ Dinner for five+one in Nov 2018 ░
Lady Zhao's All Fish Course 四小姐鱻食套餐
NT$2000 + 10% tax at time of consumption
(*pls refer to website for current price)

▲ No prize for guessing what inspired this set, as Marshal Zhang loved eating seafood. 

▼ Appetizer, and an auspiciously named "Longevity Double Gems" to kickstart dinner

▼ King grouper spring roll with romaine lettuce and mango sauce

▼ King grouper dumpling and truffle with seaweed sauce

▼ Organic rose vinegar, that has become an important palate cleanser mid-way each set

▼ Mandarin fish and glutinous rice

▼ Seasonal fish consomme 

▼ Seasonal greens

▼ Dessert (very smooth and light soy beancurd in almond sauce) & fresh fruit

Looking forward to my next visit, hopefully to chill out at the tea house, and experience the last of the four set meals ~

Related reading:
[Taipei 台北] Beitou stroll 北投小散步 : Park 公园 + Library 图书馆 + Hot Spring Museum 温泉博物馆 + Thermal Valley 地热谷
[Taipei 台北 ⌂ Stay宿] Radium Kagaya Beitou 日胜生加贺屋 北投 ✭PLUS✭ The Spa by Socie 施舒雅美容世界

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Zen Marshal Garden | 少帅禅园
Web (in Chinese, English and Japanese) | FB
Address --- No. 34, Youya Road, Beitou District, Taipei City  台北市，北投区，幽雅路34hao


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