[Tainan 台南] Yong Le Market ♦ 永乐市场－Lynda's Taiwan-logue

< Visited in Aug 2018 | May 2017 | Dec 2016 | Aug 2016 >

Tainan is commonly considered as Taiwan's culinary capital, and any traveller who has been to the city will concur. The ancient capital's cuisine has a personality of its own, boasting a rich variety (comparable to what I feel is the other highlight here - accommodation) and a distinctive (some say sweet) flavour. From streetside stalls, humble eateries, traditional markets, to cafes and restaurants, you name it, they have it.

If you are into the colours and scents of traditional markets - a disappearing sight in many cities (definitely in mine) - you will not be disappointed here at Yong Le Market 永乐市场.

From where I was staying at Zhengxing Street 正兴街, it was an easy 10-minute stroll to the market, with plenty to see and eat along the way. Enroute to/fro other attractions on foot, I also find myself walking past or through this area, even though not all stalls remain opened through the day.

▼ At this junction, the foodstalls are straight ahead on the two sides of the vehicular lane. The traditional (or wet) market area (for fresh produce, meat, fruits) is to the right and mainly within the sheltered compound of Yong Le Market 永乐市场. (Side note: keep walking straight ahead and you will reach Zheng Xing Street 正兴街 as shown on the Google Map.)

Covering the traditional market section first...
I take pleasure in strolling traditional market places, particularly the colourful fruit stalls. Taiwan being an absolute fruit paradise, I make an effort to research what's in season before visiting, and have pre-ordered mangoes directly from farmers, delivered to my hotel! Fruit stalls at traditional markets are also a great and affordable source, if you plan to cart some of these home (remember to check customs regulations of your country to ensure you can bring fruits home).

Elsewhere in the traditional market, the morning vibe was infectious.

Walking through the area at a different part of the day, there is no trace of the morning hustle and bustle.

Whether you are embarking on your food quest before or after a walk in the traditional market, or if you are here for breakfast, lunch or afternoon tea, I suggest allowing a good couple of hours here. Many of the (popular) stalls here close for the day by early afternoon (typical in laidback Tainan - businesses either start the day late or end the day early), so you may end up revisiting at different meal times, which I did, intentionally or otherwise.

I am no connoisseur and taste is subjective, thus subequent snapshots are purely the types of street food you can find here, including those I have tried and like.
*Foodstalls may not be in order of location/appearance.

▼ Yi Pin Wei wa guey & fish thick soup 一品味碗粿鱼羹 - one of my favourite stalls and a must-have on each visit, even though there is another famous shop across the street selling the same thing. Literally translated as 'steamed cake in a bowl', wa guey's texture is alike the Chinese carrot or tapioca cake, but with minced pork and dried shrimp filling, topped off with a thick delicious hoisin sauce of sorts that goes well with just so many Taiwanese eats. I love most starchy soupy stuff in Taiwan - the fish thick soup here is not as starchy as those found in Taipei night markets, and a dash of vinegar makes it quite refreshing. The ladies running this stall are always friendly, making it less daunting even for tourists ordering for the first time and (imaginably) taking a while to decide or communicate.

▼ On the left is 阿松割包, from the stall next door. Sometimes written as 刈包, this is commonly described as a "Taiwanese burger", or simply, pork belly bun. The "fattiness" of the meat used varies from stall to stall, some with their own signature sauce.

▼ Another dish I enjoyed - calamari vermicelli soup 小卷米粉, with a choice between thick or thin vermicelli (/beehoon). The soup base is slightly sweet, a common trait of Tainan dishes - not a turn-off for me. The calamari is fresh and comes in a generous portion. You will find other stalls selling the same thing, and each pulling its own weight.

▼ Turning (right) into the alley at this beancurd corner stall brings you to Cafe Chamber.

▼ Pineapple + apple juice. Thankful for generous portions in Taiwan which often come at lower prices than where I come from.

▼ Special mention to Ah Juan Braised Noodles and Meat Dumpling 阿娟卤面肉粽, midway between Yong Le Market 永乐市场 and Zheng Xing Street 正兴街. Found it quite by chance, and you may be forgiven for missing its humble and perhaps even messy-looking shopfront, flanked by a shabby-looking shack of sorts right opposite with some old tables and chairs - if not for its red signboard and an amazing crowd. As always, where the queue is, the food must be good?.

Turned out to be a wildly popular stall among locals for meat stew, porridge and meat dumplings, and operates till early afternoon (or when sold out). The morning crowd I saw had been waiting (some of them for hours!) to collect pre-orders. Whatever (little) is left, is then left for walk-ins.

The only item available when I asked was their meat dumping 肉粽 - which became the first thing we ate for breakfast. I can only say that the modestly-sized dumpling was good enough to make me return later to takeout two more for afternoon tea.

Interestingly, when we were enjoying our meat dumplings, a local lady asked if we would like to take over her number tag, as she was unable to continue waiting (she had already been there for a couple of hours!). She hadn't paid for her pre-order, and we were not picky about what she had ordered. After consulting the seasoned customers waiting, we took a calculated risk to continue our feasting at Yong Le Market 永乐市场, before returning a couple of hours later to collect our inherited orders!

Decided to devour our mystery order on the spot - two meat stew 肉羹, one of which came with vermicelli. It was definitely to my taste, but I am not sure if I would be willing to wait hours. Having said that, reminiscing its taste got the better of me and I returned
on a subsequent visit to attempt a pre-order. Despite TWO days in advance, I was told their order was full (?!), and this time, I couldn't even get my hands on any meat dumpling. I reckon I will be back someday

▼ Another must-try in hot & sunny Tainan - shaved ice 挫冰. Choose something off their ready menu or pick your own toppings (I usually do the latter as I am not fond of red and green bean).