[Taichung 台中] Taichung Second Market ♦ 台中第二市场 @ Lynda's Taiwan-logue

< Visited in Jul 2019 >

Traditional markets are a disappearing act in modern cities. Many get an overhaul and lose their original charm, becoming nothing more than homogenous, functional places. On this note, Taiwan makes an effort to inject creativity and character into some of their modern markets - making tradition accessible and attractive to the younger generation. I love visiting marketplaces on my travels, especially traditional ones which are almost non-existent where I come from; and find revamped ones in Taiwan quite an attraction on their own. Both types are worth exploring, for the local cuisine, infectious peak hour energy and modest neighbourhood charm.

Taichung Second Market 台中第二市场 was opened way back in 1917, and regarded as a upscale market for the Japanese. Came across two interesting YouTube videos sharing insights on the century-old Taichung landmark, which you can find online:
❐ 市场寻百味: 台中第二市场额 Century-old market in Taichung, Taiwan
❐ 我在市场待了一天: Ep6 台中第二市场

Five minutes on foot from my accommodation, I had made my way here around noon, though after light bites and intending leisurely sightseeing, rather than a full meal. If you plan to settle a full meal here, my suggestion is to come before noon or right after lunchtime peak, to beat the queue. If you are here primarily for sightseeing, the early morning and lunchtime crowds can better convey the energetic vibes. So saying, I already have plans to focus on dining in when I revisit.

The two fruit stores at this corner - 庆周 and 陈庆 - have been in operations for a long time, and are said to sell the city's most expensive fruits in their early years, being popular go-to places to buy fruit hampers as gifts.

For a start, I circled the perimeter of the market, taking into sight a variety of shops, eateries and foodcarts.

Walking in to the market proper, the many lanes and turns may seem confusing. Then again, getting lost in the maze of stalls and smells is a unique experience on its own - you may very well chance upon some hidden gems.

▼ 杨妈妈立食 is a popular sushi & sashimi eatery. You may find such "立食" or "立吞" stalls a common sight in Taiwanese markets - they literally mean "to eat instantly". Some are standing sushi bars, such as the one I came across at Taipei's Shi Dong Market 士东市场.

▼ 文忠行 is an old-time shop that sells handmade spring roll "skin" to mainly restaurants and eateries, now run by the son who took over from his dad.

▼ An oddly-placed boutique among the food and fresh produce and meat stalls.

▼ Greeted by a local dessert stall - counting many of the items as my favourites - which marks the start of a vibrant cooked food cluster.

▼ If you have not noticed, there is a number of stalls selling braised meat rice 卤肉饭, each of them easily a long-time brand. I'll definitely want to eat this next time.

▼ What I DID manage to eat this time (as takeout in the comfort of my hotel room) - popular breakfast/afternoon tea stall 王记, which sells a variety of items such as fishball/meatball soup, tempura and chinese steamed cakes. But #1 on their menu is a combi of radish cake 菜头粿 + rice sausage 米肠 + omelette 蛋, for NT$60. There are limited seats at the counter front, and on the side cum open-end of this section - if you don't mind waiting (while surrounded by people) and the heat, turnover should be quite fast.

▼ Rice sausage 米肠 is basically glutinous rice stuffed into (very clean and thin) pig intestine lining (/pork caul), usually with peanuts, then pan-fried and drizzled with soy sauce paste 酱油膏 (which goes so well with many local dishes!). While I am not a fan of intestines and organs, I love 米肠 as the lining cannot be tasted at all. (Side note: 米肠 is the same rice sausage that holds a Taiwanese pork sausage, in the night market snack 大肠包小肠.)

▼ Right opposite 王记 are the other two stalls I patronised - 邹记葱油饼 and 老赖红茶.

老赖's 豆红 (essentially a refreshing blend of soybean milk and red tea) is their signature beverage and worth a try!

Back to exploring the market, there is an indoor temple - Wu De Temple 武德宮, worshipping Guan Gong 关公 (/ 关羽 / 关圣帝君) and Mazu 妈祖.

▼ The confusing maze of lanes congregate in a centre courtyard, housing neat rows of bikes and currently exhibiting beautiful monochrome photos of olden days Taichung Second Market.

A couple who used to run a fruit retailer now operates One Third Coffee 三之一咖啡, selling not only drip coffee, but also fruit juices, shaved ice and Japanese curry ice. I have this often-featured cafe on my to-try list.

▼ Lastly, don't miss the marketplace monument 六角楼, a hexagon tower at the centre courtyard near the cafe. It is from this epicentre that six lanes extend outwards, forming the maze of stalls and shops.

A narrow flight of stairs bring you to about two storeys high, though there isn't really much view and there is no access through the locked wooden door.