< Visited in Jul 2019 >
In my quest for less touristy destinations, Pinglin 坪林 came across as being one of the more accessible districts. Governed under New Taipei City 新北市, it is an approximate hour's drive from Taipei Main Station, to an entirely different landscape. A rustic mountainous town which flourished with tea (particularly Pouchong 包種) cultivation, it used to be a popular pit-stop between Taipei and Yilan before a new highway cut the journey short. The district now promotes low carbon footprint travel, and made a marvellous day trip for me, which I'll share in this post if you are considering a similar excursion.
Date of travel: Sun, 14 Jul 2019
I had deliberately planned this on a weekend, considering (1) Pinglin is not as tourist-packed as other (more commercial or known) old towns/streets and (2) rest days of attractions, shops and eateries. Also, bus frequency is higher on weekends. There was a healthy crowd (vs a desolate old town which may not be the most conducive or safest to stroll?), primarily locals/families, so I was able to enjoy the sights without being overwhelmed or inconvenienced. Avoid Mondays in view of rest days.
Mode of travel: MRT to Xindian Station 新店站 (G01, green line) + Xindian bus 新店客运 #923*** to Pinglin Terminal 坪林总站; bus fare was not more than NTD30 per ride using my EZcard.
You can also alight at the stop prior, Pinglin Junior High School 坪林国中, to walk to Pinglin Old Street. Do check the bus schedule to better plan your commute.
***Alternative buses
a) From MRT Xindian Station - Xindian bus green line 新店客运绿 #12
b) From MRT Dapinglin Station 大坪林站 (G04, green line) - Metropolitan bus 首都客运 #9028 (travels to/fro Xindian 新店 and Su'ao 苏澳 in Yilan 宜兰; note alighting point at Pinglin is different from #923 and #12)
Duration of excursion: 10am (arrival at Pinglin) to 5pm (departing Pinglin by bus), approx. 7hrs
Note: I maintained a VERY leisurely pace throughout the day.
Attractions (visited in this order):
1. BY-TeaMaster 白青长茶作坊
2. Just Pinglin 坪感觉
3. Pinglin Old Street 坪林老街
4. Pinglin Tea Museum 坪林茶业博物馆
5. Pinglin Tea Cultural Museum 坪林茶产业文化馆
(I have included links to separate posts for some of them below.)
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Arriving at MRT Xindian Station 新店站 at about 8.25am. The bus terminal is right outside the MRT station, and if you noticed a long queue on the right of the photo - yes, that was for bus #923 :-|
Joining the long (but orderly) queue, I had to miss my intended 8.30am ride. Fortunately, bus frequency was higher on weekends, and I was lucky enough to be one of the last few to board the next bus at 9am. No standing passengers are permitted for buses travelling on highways, so the driver will assist to fill last seats (great if you travel solo, like I did).
(Gentle reminder: If you are travelling in a large group, do be considerate to fellow passengers and join the queue only when most or all of your group members have arrived - don't be surprised if people behind you tell you off for your late folks "cutting the line". You won't feel good too if the line in front keeps extending and delaying your turn on the bus.)
⇩ Boarding my ride at 9am. Kudos to the bus service for punctual departures!
About a 50-minute ride later, the latter half being quite scenic as we left the city behind, I arrived at the last stop (bus terminal, Pinglin Station 坪林站). Most of the passengers had alighted at the stop prior to walk to the old street (which looks to be in between the 2 bus stops). I alighted here as this was my meeting point with the host of BY-TeaMaster 白青长茶作坊. (I had messaged him upon boarding the bus, so he can better gauge my ETA.)
⇩ A makeshift looking bus terminal, rustic in its own way :-) This is also the boarding point for my return bus ride.
⇩ The other bus that reaches this stop - green #12 (#9028 doesn't seem to stop here though).
There are 2 breakfast shops right opposite the bus terminal, if you need a bite before starting your excursion. These are the typical Taiwanese breakfast shops which offers sandwiches, pan-fried carrot cake, omelette pancakes and the likes - caveat: I didn't go close enough to check out the menu.
A left turn from the bus terminal, there is a shop selling soap hand-made from Pinglin tea - Shuiliujiao 68 水柳角. (Side note: Just Pinglin 坪感觉 sells a small selection of their merchandise.)
A short wait later at 10ish, my host from BY-TeaMaster 白青长茶作坊 arrived in his car to pick me up.
(Click the link below for separate post.)
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I was driven back to Pinglin Old Street 坪林老街 before 1pm, making it for my lunch reservation at Just Pinglin 坪感觉.
(Click the link below for separate post.)
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After a satisfying lunch, I took a walk at Pinglin Old Street 坪林老街. While not a long street or large area, it makes a nice leisurely afternoon (or even evening) stroll. About 60% of the shops were opened when I was there, the street was not overly crowded (noting there were still people streaming in in the late afternoon. I am not sure what time the shops close for the day but I referenced Just Pinglin 坪感觉 which closes at 7pm on Sundays), but you can still find a bite or drink.
⇩ With my lunch properly settled, I came back later in the afternoon to takeaway Pouchong tea eggs 包種茶叶蛋 and, for a lack of direct translation, a traditional glutinous steamed "dumpling" with pickled radish filling 草仔粿 (菜圃馅).
⇩ The prominent corner shop selling Pouchong tea egg 包種茶叶蛋, right opposite Just Pinglin 坪感觉. They also have popsicles made from Pouchong tea, and other old-time tidbits.
⇩ Pinglin Tofu Old Street eatery 坪林豆腐老街小吃店 is a popular place often seen in local blogs and was crowded the couple of times I walked past.
⇩ 阿姑(麥鼠)麴粿 where I bought my glutinous snack. There are other fillings available (e.g red bean, which I am not a fan of), typical of 草仔粿 (cao2 zai2 guo3 in Chinese, cao-ah-guey in dialect), a traditional local snack commonly found in Taiwanese old streets and marketplaces. Do support the smiley and friendly lady selling it, if you fancy glutinous-like steamed "dumplings".
⇩ Would have wanted a bun too but they were closed for the day when I came back. Which brings me to the point that operating hours vary, and it's not surprising for rustic old towns to end the day early.
⇩ There were many ornate street lights like these - made to resemble tea pots.
⇩ Reaching the other end (or start, depending on where you walk from) of Pinglin Old Street, I strolled in the direction of Pinglin Tea Museum 坪林茶业博物馆.
⇩ The lane I walked over from
⇩ Crossing to the side of the blue arch bridge, an iconic photo stop at Pinglin.
⇩ The areas marked in pink were what I covered on foot for the day, EXCLUDING By-TeaMaster which is out of this walking range. The farthest left being Pinglin Tea Museum 坪林茶业博物馆 (our next destination), the farthest right being Pinglin bus terminal, and the old street in the middle. Pathways are fairly smooth and easy to navigate (with the aid of Google Maps, if you need).
⇩ Guess no one minded beddings being sunned here :-)
⇩ Strolling across the blue arch bridge was scenic. That hot summer day, there were water activities on the stream below.
⇩ Another attraction on the arch bridge...
⇩ According to a Pinglin travel brochure, every March to August, hundreds of egrets 白鹭鸶 (bai2 lu4 si1) and night herons 夜鹭 (ye4 lu4) gather here. They were a stunning sight, but best admired from a distance. As the signage says - refrain from disturbing them in their natural habitat AND in view of H7N9 influenza, it's highly advisable not to come into close contact with the birds.
⇩ Guess the lady in the picture didn't read the signage.
⇩ After crossing the blue arch bridge and reaching this point, Pinglin Tea Museum 坪林茶业博物馆 is steps away towards the right.
Arriving close to 3pm, there was ample time for a leisurely visit before the museum closed at 5.30pm.
(Click the link below for separate post.)
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|| 4. Pinglin Tea Museum 坪林茶业博物馆 ||
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Back on the street slightly over 4pm, the scenary on this side of the stream overlooking the old street zone was pretty stunning too.
⇩ In the distance, the old bridge makes a good photo opp. I didn't walk in that direction as I decided to head back to the old street for the last attraction of the day - Pinglin Tea Cultural Museum 坪林茶产业文化馆.
⇩ A signage on the left says 低碳坪林, or 'low carbon Pinglin' - a good initiative and positioning by the district government, I feel.
⇩ Crossing the road where this signage is...
... I came back to the cross-junction of Pinglin Old Street 坪林老街 where Just Pinglin 坪感觉 is located.
⇩ Walking towards the left brings us to the bus terminal. Walking straight ahead brings us to the next destination - Pinglin Tea Cultural Museum 坪林茶产业文化馆. On the right is Just Pinglin 坪感觉 and Pinglin Old Street 坪林老街.
A friendly street dog provided welcomed distraction for a while.
⇩ Turn left in front of this school building (look out for the brown Pinglin Tea Cultural Museum 坪林茶产业文化馆 signage enroute).
⇩ Pinglin Tea Cultural Museum 坪林茶产业文化馆, which closes at 5pm (avoid 12-1pm on weekdays as they are closed for lunch) - glad to have made it for a quick visit before it closes.
⇩ Pinglin Elementary School 坪林小學. Though there was no class on Sunday, there were still outdoor activities, such as a street dance group.
Admission is FREE, and while not as big and extensive as Pinglin Tea Museum 坪林茶业博物馆, the gentleman managing the entity was friendly and enthusiastic about introducing the exhibits to two lone visitors - me and another lady who came in around the same time. I walked away with his insights on (good quality) camellia oil produced in this district. There is also a small shop selling local products (including camellia oil).
⇩ Price chart of the tea sold here
⇩ Back at the familiar cross-junction once again, I was ready to head to the bus terminal for my ride back to MRT Xindian Station 新店站 - but not before 1 more quick stroll at the old street to buy my snacks :-)
If I remember right, the tea egg shop has a resident cat, but not sure if it's this beautiful striped kitty.
⇩ The last leisurely stroll for the day, towards the bus terminal. By then, it was close to 5pm, but I could still see small groups of visitors walking against my direction, presumably for the old street.
⇧ At this point, walking out brings you to the main road parallel to the stream. You can also exit here to take a look at the old bridge.
⇩ I kept right and continued my way to the bus terminal.
⇩ Passing by the main entrance of the earlier mentioned elementary school (seems like the earlier seen track field is at the back of the school)...
⇩ ... and the tea soap shop, mentioned at the start of my post.
⇩ Back at the bus terminal, there was already a handful of passengers waiting in line.
(A lady was selling bamboo shoots at the bus stop - locals trying to make an honest living - I decided against taking her photo so as not to appear intrusive.)
⇩ Boarded the 5pm ride to MRT Xindian Station 新店站.
Bye Pinglin, for now, and thank you for the wonderful sights and inspiration!
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